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If you desire to get the job done right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. When upon a time, this involved costs substantial cash. Now there are most likely half a lots out there that are eminently affordable. Without a borescope, you're working blind.


It is two separate tasks. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you need to get rid of copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods. They come in.


Take your spot rod, and put three solvent patches up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry patch.


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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.


If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent restore the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.


As a rule, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I've had one or 2 cases where a barrel all of a sudden started to group as I reached the end of the process, but I've had far more break-ins that made no difference at all.


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They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however excellent, and given that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the opportunity. They're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.


Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their firearms going bang. They want them spotless. And spotless is an excellent way to go.


The actions to appropriately clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field stripping or total disassembly. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this article.


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, and remove any loose particles that may be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.


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One typical misconception is that more is better when it pertains to lubrication of your gun. You wish to effectively oil where required, but excessive can result in excessive residues, which can lead to breakdowns and handling concerns (slippery). Lubing cloths are an excellent tool because they help control the amount of oil/lubrication being utilized in any given location of your gun.


Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that eliminating copper can take a while.


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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.


What you do not desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. So when you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a number of patches that have actually been wet with a routine cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.


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